The latest addition to the Bone Daddies squad has popped up on the streets of Soho. It’s called ‘Shackfuyu’: ‘Shack’ being a rough and ready space + ‘Fuyu’ being ‘winter’ in Japanese (it opened during the winter & will remain open until next winter).
Peering in from the street, the restaurant looked deceivingly small, but once inside, i found a pretty large space seating upto 70 diners. There’s exposed brickwork, a nice mix of banquette and table seating (although a tad too green for my taste), and a rock ‘n’ roll soundtrack playing in the background.
The menu is as short and sweet as it gets – the chefs have created a playful take on Japanese inspired snacky foods & the selection is mainly based around the use of the former site’s pizza oven.
Beverage-wise, i passed on the beer, wine & sake, instead fancying one of the four in-house cocktails – a beautifully pink ‘Sake Cherry Gimlet’ (vodka, sake & cherry syrup).
Scouring the menu, the hand dived roasted scallop with chilli miso butter jumped right off the page – i had to have it. To my annoyance & disappointment though, it wasn’t on offer that evening. Negative marks for Shackfuyu before the meal had begun.
Thankfully, the rest of the dishes we tried (bar one) were thoroughly enjoyable. The yellowtail tostada to kick-off was fantastic – super fresh and flavoursome, i could have devoured 10.
Shackfuyu’s unconventional prawn toast arrives as an okonomiyaki (a savoury Japanese pancake), with a layer of prawn on top which is then drizzled with some highly addictive sauces. Although a bit rich for us overall, i can’t deny it tasted incredibly good.
Since the scallops were off the cards that evening, we went for the prawn ‘special’ instead, as per our waiter’s recommendation. Although appetising to the eye, as soon as i tucked in, i was disappointed, and ended up leaving the dish half eaten.
The USDA beef picanha is essentially a Nebraskan rump steak – cooked very nicely in the pizza oven, and carved thinly just as i prefer, it combined extremely well with the kimchee tare butter & pickles.
On a standalone basis, the mentaiko mac and cheese with bacon & cock scratchings was just ordinary and underwhelming.
However, when paired with the beef, it made the ideal side dish and complemented the meat excellently.
And now onto my personal highlight of the Shackfuyu show & also probably the main reason i’d return. The kinako french toast with green tea soft serve ice cream is simply sublime. Instagrammers have gone mad for this dessert, & rightly so, because every bite is a mouthful of pure satisfaction. On the outside, there was a nice amount of caramelisation thanks to the kinako (a sweet Japanese soybean flour), while the inside was beautifully moist without being sickly.
Dips Bites: Although not blown away by dinner at Shackfuyu, it’s definitely an exciting little project from Bone Daddies. The small menu, which will change regularly, demonstrates some fine creative & experimental cooking. My standout dishes were the sashimi tostada, the beef picanha and of course that wonderful Kinako french toast. Next time, i’d want to try the scallops, the Korean fried wings & the hot stone rice, all of which i’ve read positive reviews about.
Opening Times: Mon 12-3pm/5.30-10pm; Tues to Fri 12-3pm/5.30-11pm; Sat 12pm-11pm; Sun & Bank Holidays 12pm-9pm
P.S. No reservations – but there’s a bar area where you can wait for a table.